They say that breads are high in salt, so I thought I could make a better go of it making things myself. A biscuit recipe I made the other day called for a teaspoon of salt, which I realized was 2,325 mg of sodium in the 15 biscuits it yielded – that’s 155mg of sodium per little 1.5 inch biscuit, and babies under one are supposed to have no more than 200mg a day!

Cooking and sharing food with a baby under one has led me to rely heavily on spices as salt-free seasonings. Usually I turn to Indian cooking for this, but there are many more spices and combinations to be found beyond our borders – there’s so much more out there than just meat and potatoes in a broader sense. And “spices” don’t necessarily mean “spicy.” One such spice blend is za’atar. I first came to it in Hong Kong when I was pregnant. We had been eating out 2-3 times a day at fantastic restaurants for three weeks, but at the end of it I was craving something healthy in that crunchy sense. Then we found this super hippy restaurant that served simple flatbreads and, intrigued, I picked one that had za’atar…. then I couldn’t wait to get back home and make flaxseed tortilla shells filled with avocados, tomatoes, hummus and za’atar.

For babies I would add za’atar to homemade bean spreads, tahini, yogurt, eggs, avocados, roasted squashes, and soups. My baby won’t eat veggies plain, but add some flavor with some spices and she’s all over it. You can fry za’atar in oil to deepen the flavor, and then add some more at the end to keep its herbal notes intact. You can even use it for dusting popcorn. Here are some great online recipes to try it out. I’ve bookmarked Ottolenghi’s butternut squash recipe, these olive oil crackers, and I made an adaptation of this sardinian flatbread below. I love these pita shells from Costco because they make great personal sized pizzas or permutations thereof.


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Here I’ve covered it in tahini (sesame seed paste, kind of like adult peanut butter and probably great for kids with nut allergies), feta cheese, sprinkled it with za’atar and drizzled it with olive oil and lemon juice before baking.

Like harissa, za’atar differs from country to country. At its most basic I would say it usually has white sesame seeds, sumac (a lemony spice I’ve found at middle eastern shops), dried herbs, and sometimes salt. I think this blogger says it best:

Za’atar the spice blend is a mixture of dried herbs, sesame seeds, and sumac, and often salt, a centuries-old mixture dating back to the 13th century, at least. What those herbs are and how all those ingredients are proportioned vary from culture to culture and family to family. In much of the Middle East, za’atar recipes are closely guarded secrets, and there are also substantial regional variations. In Jordan, the za’atar is particularly heavy on the sumac, so it looks red. Lebanese za’atar may have dried orange zest; Israeli za’atar (adopted from Arab communities much like the American adoption of salsa) often includes dried dill. Unsurprisingly, these variations are a matter of extreme national pride.

World Spice in Seattle sells an Israeli za’atar, which contains

  • White Sesame Seed
  • Sumac
  • Turkish Oregano
  • Dill Weed
  • Thyme
  • Kosher Salt

and they also sell a Syrian za’atar, which contains

  • Sumac
  • European Coriander Seed
  • White Sesame Seed
  • Cumin Seed
  • Kosher Salt
  • Anise Seed
  • Lemon Crystal

I bought a premade blend from Central Market that contains

  • Marjoram
  • Oregano
  • Savory
  • Sea salt
  • Sesame seeds
  • Sumac
  • Thyme
I’ve also seen blends that involve hyssop. I’m personally not a fan of thyme because I find it kind of stale even when it’s fresh from the garden. Thyme is also a bit anti-lactogenic, but one of these combinations involves anise seed, which is lactogenic. I feel the same way about savory – but maybe the dried kind I’m buying has been on the shelf too long. If there is a herb or spice you like, I would encourage you to buy the very freshest dried version you can. I was not a believer until I tried Spice Islands. I had a coupon for $2 off and I waited for a 50% off sale at the supermarket – I ended up getting a $12 bottle of bay leaves (ridiculous, I know), but it smells nothing like any bay leaf I’ve ever bought, the color is vibrant – it’s kind of amazing. It’s like a completely different herb!

Here’s my take on some combinations. I’m all about adding salt to taste after cooking if it really needs it, so I would omit it from a homemade blend. Gently crush the toasted sesame seeds if you can with a mortar and pestle.

  •  1 Tbsp toasted white sesame seeds
  • 4 Tbsp sumac
  • 2 tsp oregano
  • 2 tsp dill weed
or
  • 2 tablespoons fresh thyme leaves, baked for ~10 minutes at 300°F
  • 2 tablespoons toasted white sesame seeds
  • 2 teaspoons ground sumac

or 

  • 1 Tbsp toasted white sesame seeds
  • 4 Tbsp sumac
  • 2 tsp oregano
  • 2 tsp savory
or
  • 1 Tbsp toasted white sesame seeds
  • 4 Tbsp sumac
  • 2 tsp toasted coriander seeds, crushed
  • 2 tsp toasted anise seeds, crushed
or
  •  1 Tbsp. chopped fresh oregano
  • 1 Tbsp. sumac
  • 1 Tbsp. ground cumin
  • 1 Tbsp. toasted white sesame seeds
You can play with proportions and ingredients!