Ever tried to make a yeast dough? Had less than stellar results? Been too afraid to even attempt it? This is the beginning of a series on raised dough. I hope that this series will help take some of the mystery out of yeast dough, and introduce you to the wonderful smells and flavors that you will be welcoming into your kitchen once you have the basics down. Cooking with yeast can seem intimidating, but it is really a very simple and timeless tradition that any interested foodie can master.

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Let’s start with the yeast. There are a few things to remember:

  • Yeast are alive
  • Yeast like warm, moist environments (typically between 70-100 F)
  • You can kill your yeast by introducing too hot of a temperature (at approximately 140F, yeast die). Do not put boiling water on your yeast.

When you buy yeast, you will notice that there are several kinds available. I use SAF Instant Yeast exclusively in my baking. They also have a variety intended for use in sweet doughs, which may have a retarded rise because of the added sugar. I will spare you a long diatribe about all the different sorts of yeast that exist and simply recommend SAF instant if you are a novice baker using yeast for the first time. It is reliable and you can skip the proofing. If you would like to learn more about the varieties of yeast, their applications, and the differences, here’s a great resource.

Now we’ll move on to my top tips for working with yeast:

  • Store yeast in the freezer. I keep my yeast in an old spaghetti sauce jar. Keeping them frozen causes them to become dormant, so that they have a longer shelf-life and are ready to use when you need them.
  • Use a plastic shower cap sprayed with oil over the bowl you are proofing the dough in. They are re-usable, unlike plastic wrap, and stretch to give a good fit. You can also use a container with a cover, like this one. Just remember to simply place the lid on top, rather than fastening it. You can also use a wet towel. Flour sack towels, like these, are admirable for this application.
  • For amazing, complex flavor, make your dough at night and let the first rise happen in your refrigerator. Many bakers swear by a long, slow rise to bring out all the complex yeast flavors in the dough. Plus, there is work going on while you sleep. Let me repeat that: work going on while you sleep. Now I think that’s something almost anyone can appreciate! In the morning, take out your dough and continue the process. In the case of cinnamon rolls, refrigerated dough is also much easier to roll out.
  • Use your microwave or oven to make a cozy little home for happy yeast. Boil some water and place it in a glass container (a glass, a pyrex measuring cup… doesn’t even has to be glass; it just has to safely hold the hot water), preferably one with a larger surface area to enhance evaporation. Shut the container of water in your oven or microwave with your dough to boost the humidity and temperature and make your little yeasties happy so they can grow their best. Change out the water frequently to ensure that the environment stays warm and moist.

Before we move on to the recipe, here is my little stable of favorite items that I use when I’m making this recipe. I will detail in the recipe steps where you will be using each item, because some might be new to you if you’re not like *this* with yeast yet. They make things so much easier and simpler. Promise!


1  |  2  |  3  |  4  |5  |  6

And now, for all of you who are saying, “all right, all right. Yes, yeast. Now shut up lady and teach me how to make the damn cinnamon rolls already!” I will move on to the recipe.

Dough

  • 1 packet “highly active” active dry yeast; or 2 1/2 teaspoons active dry yeast; or 2 1/2 teaspoons instant yeast
  • 7/8 to 1 1/8 cups lukewarm water*
  • 3 cups King Arthur Unbleached All-Purpose Flour
  • 6 tablespoons unsalted butter, at room temperature
  • 3 tablespoons sugar
  • 1 1/4 teaspoons salt
  • 1/4 cup nonfat dry milk
  • 1/2 cup instant mashed potato flakes
  • *Use the lesser amount in summer (or in a humid environment), the greater amount in winter (or in a dry climate), and somewhere in between the rest of the year, or if your house is climate controlled.

Cinnamon Filling

Vanilla Glaze

  • 1 1/4 cups confectioners’ sugar
  • 1/2 teaspoon vanilla extract (I actually prefer to use vanilla bean paste; the seeds make a very pretty glaze)
  • 4 to 5 tablespoons heavy cream or 2 to 3 tablespoons milk, enough to make a soft, spreadable icing

1) First, make the dough. If you’re using active dry yeast, dissolve it with a pinch of sugar in 2 tablespoons in the lukewarm water. Let the yeast and water sit at room temperature for 15 minutes, until the mixture has bubbled and expanded. If you’re using instant yeast, you can skip this step.

2) Combine the dissolved yeast (or instant yeast) with the remainder of the dough ingredients. Mix and knead everything together—by hand, mixer or bread machine set on the dough cycle—till you’ve made a smooth dough. If you’re kneading in a stand mixer, it should take about 7 minutes at second speed, and the dough should barely clean the sides of the bowl, perhaps sticking a bit at the bottom. In a bread machine (or by hand), it should form a smooth ball. If you are hand-kneading, this is the BEST tutorial I have seen out there. Watch it. Love it.

3) Place the dough in a lightly greased bowl. This silicone dough scraper works like a charm to convince sticky dough to go where you want, and not all over your hands. Even gets those last, stubborn little bits that I always used to end up wasting! Cover the bowl, and allow the dough to rise, at room temperature, till it’s nearly doubled in bulk, about 1 to 2 hours. Rising may take longer, especially if you’ve kneaded by hand. Give it enough time to become quite puffy. *Personally, this is the stage where I stick the dough in a greased rising bucket—I spray with canola, such as Pam. Olive oil works, too, but I find it gives a slightly “off” flavor to a sweet dough and stick the whole works in the fridge overnight.

4) While the dough is rising, lightly grease two 9″ round cake pans. *Again, if this is me, I do this step in the morning right before I get my dough out of the fridge.

5) Transfer the risen dough to a lightly greased work surface (or this is where you would use the pastry board. Take a handful of flour and rub it into the cloth until the cloth looks dusty all over, then transfer your dough and use the straight rolling pin to roll it out). *If you are working with chilled dough straight from the refrigerator, I find the rolling out step to be easier! Pat or roll it into a 16″ x 12″ rectangle. It’s a nice, soft dough, and pats out easily.

6) To make the filling, whisk together the sugar, cinnamon, and flour.

7) Brush the dough lightly with milk.

8) Sprinkle the filling evenly over the dough, covering the entire surface.

9) Roll the dough into a log the long way; it’ll stretch to about 20″ long as you roll.

10) Using a serrated knife, slice the log into 16 slices. In order to cut down on drag, it helps to rinse the blade in hot water, and wipe it off, between slices. *I first freeze the rolled up “logs” for 10-15 minutes in the freezer. We have a chest freezer, which maintains a slightly colder temperature, so in a regular freezer this may take a little longer. You want the dough logs to feel slightly firm to the touch. Then I use my bench knife to cut the logs into slices. You can freeze cinnamon rolls at this stage (before the second rise). This works really well for portion control, and also means you can have some sweet treats ready to go the next time you have company, a rainy day, or a craving. After you have made your slices, place any you don’t plan to bake immediately into a freezer safe bag or other container. When you want to use them, simply remove them from the freezer, allow them to defrost overnight in the fridge, and take them out to do their second rise in the morning. In other words, after their night in the fridge, start at step 11 (grease pans, and place the rolls you want to bake inside). Phew!

11) Space eight rolls in each of the prepared pans. Flatten them gently.

12) Cover the pans, and let the rolls rise till they’re noticeably puffy, about 1 1/2 to 2 hours; they should spread out and start to crowd one another. *Here is where you can use that heated water in your oven or microwave (yes, I realize that using the microwave means only one pan can fit, but this would work swell if you are planning to freeze half of the rolls to bake another morning!) to make an ideal rising environment. Remember that if you are working from chilled dough, it will take a little longer as the dough has to warm up to temperature. Having an environment heated to a higher temperature than room temperature helps. Just remember; not too hot, or your yeast will die!

13) While the rolls are rising, preheat the oven to 375°F.

14) Bake the rolls till they’re brown around the edges and beginning to turn golden brown across the center, about 20 minutes.

15) If you’re going to serve the rolls immediately, make the icing while the rolls are baking. Combine the sugar, vanilla, and enough cream or milk to make a spreadable icing. If you’re not serving the rolls immediately, don’t make the icing yet.

16) Remove the rolls from the oven, and loosen their edges with a knife. Turn them out of the pan onto a rack. To enjoy right away, spread with the icing and serve.

17) To serve the rolls later, allow them to cool completely, then wrap in plastic wrap and store at room temperature for up to 3 days. Fifteen minutes before you’re ready to serve, preheat the oven to 350°F. Unwrap the rolls, place them on an ungreased baking sheet, and tent lightly with aluminum foil. Bake for 10 to 15 minutes, until they’re nicely warmed.

18) While the rolls are reheating, make the icing.

19) Remove the rolls from the oven, and spread with the icing. Serve immediately.

Stay tuned for more in this series. I will continue to share my best tips and tricks for working with yeast dough, and at the end there will be a little contest where you can win a few of my top baking tools. Because I love anyone who stuck around to read this novel juuuust that much. Happy baking!

*Recipe and recipe photos used by permission of King Arthur Flour.